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Hallowe'en!
Secrets of the Trade
Wow! You did it! You found the secret page! It's still under construction, and doesn't have the visuals to accompany the text, but words are technically visuals. So read, if you dare!
To reward your exuberant clicking around my site I will now offer you some pro-tips on carving pumpkins!
1. Have an Idea in Mind
First, consider what you want to carve. A face? A cat? A superhero? Having an idea in mind can help the planning process. Some people prefer doing a freehand or traditional triangle-eyed jack, so the emphasis on pre-planning may not be as high.
Others may choose to carve something specific, like an image from a photograph or a stencil. Stencils can be bought around Halloween season at stores like Dollarama, Wal-Mart, or Shoppers Drug Mart, and usually come packaged with a few tools, like saws and a pumpkin scoop. Stencils can also be found online from a wide variety of websites (like zombiepumpkins.com), or made using editing software (like Adobe Photoshop). Knowing what you're going to carve will make it easier to choose your pumpkin.
2. Selecting the Perfect Pumpkin
Artists often choose a canvas based on what they’ll be painting, and the same is true of carving pumpkins. If using a stencil or prepared image it’s always important to bring it along with you when selecting a pumpkin, as the gourd’s size and shape may be deciding factors. For example, a tall, narrow pumpkin would be a good fit for a stencil that is oriented in a portrait format. Conversely, a short, wide pumpkin would be better suited for a landscape oriented design. Pumpkins can be obtained from many places during October, including grocery stores and farmer’s markets. If available, a pumpkin patch may even be a viable option for selecting the best pumpkin for a carving. However, selecting the right pumpkin goes beyond mere size.
The pumpkin carver should ensure that the pumpkin is in good condition. A visual check will be able to identify any obvious signs of damage which can contribute to a pumpkin rotting faster. If using a stencil, the carver must be mindful of selecting a pumpkin with a smooth surface that is absent of any markings that may cause issues while applying the stencil, carving the pattern, or detract from the beauty of the finished product. It’s worth mentioning that physical defects and bumps only matter if they’re present in the actual space that the carving will be made – marks on the sides and back of the pumpkin are inconsequential. However, some people may prefer a warty or malformed pumpkin if these physical quirks add to the look of the carving. The pumpkin should also be physically checked for any soft spots, especially near the top, bottom, and the flat area at the back of the pumpkin (the part of the fruit that was lying on the ground when in the pumpkin patch) which are signs that the fruit is starting to rot. Finally, pumpkins with stems still intact – especially longer, greener stems – will last longer, as the stem feeds nutrients to the rest of the fruit which slows the rotting process. You can also determine the thickness of the pumpkin's walls based on the thickness of the stem - a thicker stem indicates thicker walls.
Pro tip: never use a pie pumpkin (also known as "sugar pumpkins") for a jack-o'-lantern, as they are much tougher and thicker than a field pumpkin and are best left for pies and tarts.
3. Tools of the Trade
Before carving the pumpkin it’s a wise idea to prepare all of the tools needed and to set up a work space. It’s important to have good lighting and a sturdy table to work on. As more detailed carvings may require several hours of work, some people like to sit while carving as others may prefer to stand so that they can be more comfortable. A plastic tablecloth, news paper, or a garbage bag can be useful in protecting the table from the sticky pumpkin innards. A large bowl to collect the innards will be needed, as well a pumpkin scoop and saws (available from many stores, as previously mentioned). For those using a stencil for carving, a pair of scissors, tape, and a push-pin will also be needed. And if carving something more complicated that requires shaving off the pumpkin skin, a Speedball brand linoleum knife provides a wide variety of interchangeable blades for both broad surfaces and fine details. Additionally, keeping a few paper towels or rags on hand will be helpful in keeping all of the tools clean of pumpkin buildup.
4. Cutting the Lid
Prior to carving, the pumpkin should be washed and dried to remove any exterior dirt and debris. Using a lid saw (typically the largest carving saw available in a carving kit) a lid will need to be cut that provides access to the interior of the pumpkin. The lid should be large enough that the carver can comfortably fit a hand into the interior to scoop out the innards. A pro tip is to carve a bit of an offshoot at the back of the lid to make it easier to fit the lid back. So instead of carving an “O” shaped lid, carve a “Q” shape with the little squared tail at the back of the pumpkin. However, lids don’t have to be carved into the top of the pumpkin. Some consideration should be taken into what type of lid is needed. For a jack that only needs to last a single day a lid can be carved at the top with the stem in the centre of the lid, whereas a jack that is needed to last a few days should leave the stem intact and instead carve the lid behind the stem, almost in a fat “U” shape. Others may prefer to cut out the bottom of the pumpkin and leave the top fully intact. This option is also good for correcting a pumpkin that sits crookedly.
5. Gutting the Pumpkin
After removing the lid, the pumpkin is free to have all the innards scraped out. The lid, too, can have any extra ‘guts’ cleaned off. A pumpkin scoop, or even a clay loop from an art store, can get the interior walls of the pumpkin smooth and clean. In a pinch one could use a sturdy metal spoon. The focus of the interior cleaning should be on the inside wall of wherever the carving is going to be. This wall shouldn’t be too thick, as to make the carving process easier, nor should it be too thin, as to make the wall structurally weak. If a design requires any shaving of the pumpkin skin then the walls should be narrow enough to let light pass through the meat of the gourd. Any innards can be dumped into the bowl, and seeds can always be fished out and baked into a tasty snack as you carve!
Pro Tip: Popcorn seasoning tastes really good on pumpkin seeds...
6. Transferring the Stencil
It is at this point the carver can either start to freehand a drawing onto the face of the pumpkin – using a dry-erase marker, Sharpie, or pen – or begin transferring the stencil image onto the fruit. Stencils should be trimmed so that there is a very thin border around the edges of the image. The artist should begin taping the edges of the image onto the pumpkin with small pieces of electrical tape (or hospital tape if you can get your hands on it). As the image wraps around the pumpkin it will start to bunch up – as a flat surface cannot easily transfer onto a rounded surface – so at these points scissors should be used to cut a straight line from the edge of the stencil in toward the centre so that it allows the image to better conform. Individual cuts will vary on the type of stencil. Once the full stencil is taped into place a push-pin is used to methodically mark out all lines by punching closely placed holes through the stencil paper and into the surface of the pumpkin. Once all the lines have been punched out, the stencil is removed to reveal a connect-the-dots pattern of the image to be carved. The stencil should be kept close by for reference.
7. Gutting the Pumpkin
Now the true carving begins! A flashlight or electric candles can be placed into the pumpkin to illuminate the stencil holes and make it easier to see the pattern in the pumpkin (this is another way that the cleaned out interior of the pumpkin is useful, as the thinner the pumpkin wall, the brighter the holes will be). Any shaving of skin, if needed, should be done first with careful attention being taken to smooth out any large shaved areas. Then the sawing process begins, always starting in the dead centre of the carving and working outward from the middle. This will allow for more structural integrity and prevent any pieces of the carving from breaking off. When carving, the small saws are held like a pencil and moved with a sawing, not slicing, motion. When making a sharp turn in a line – like a ninety-degree angle – the saw is not twisted, but removed and then reinserted at the proper angle. This prevents stress damage to the pumpkin and the tool. When a piece is cut out it is not pushed in through the hole but gently pushed out from the inside of the pumpkin, using a finger. This will prevent any stretch damage to the walls of the carving. Large carved pieces benefit from being carved and removed in smaller segments. If a piece of the carving does break off, cut and sharpen a toothpick and use it as a connector to stick the piece back on.
8. A Quick Shower
After the carving has been completed it’s rinsed under cold water with any internal strips of pumpkin guts being gently brushed away by a finger. Any last details or cleaning up of edges can be done at this time, too. Any excess water is dumped out and the pumpkin is patted dry with a towel.
9. Displaying Your Jack
Lighting a pumpkin is the only way to truly appreciate all the hard work that’s gone into it. Electric tea lights, battery operated flashlights, or even glow sticks can be used to light up a jack, though the brightness can vary and one may have to place a dozen or more electric tea lights to achieve the brightness of three or four real tea lights. However, one must consider the amount of time the pumpkin is needed to last. For a single night of showing off a carving it’s best to use real candles as they’re much brighter, although it’s wise to cut a hole – about the circumference of a quarter – in the back top of the pumpkin to act as a chimney for the candle smoke to escape. But if a carving is intended to last more than a day, the intense candle heat, which can dry a carving out and cause it to shrink, may be a bit much. Therefore low-heat electric lighting is a more desirable option.
10. Preserving Your Work
A shrinking pumpkin can also be dunked in a sink or bathtub filled with cold water and allowed to sit for a few hours. This will allow the pumpkin to reabsorb water and fill out again, looking refreshed and ready to take on the night. Additionally, adding a bit of bleach or vinegar can also help prevent mould build-up. Tightly wrapping a finished jack in plastic wrap will also help protect it. While waiting to be lit, a completed jack should be kept in a cool place, but avoid frost, refrigerators and freezers. However, as a jack-‘o-lantern is still just a piece of fruit, it won’t really last much longer than four or five days before it begins to rot.